Island Peak

Trip Duration

16 Days

Trip Grade

Challenging

Highest Altitude

6,189m

Accommodation

Teahouse/Lodge

Transportation

Bus/Car

Group Size

2-10

Best Season

Autumn, Spring

Island Peak Overview

Island Peak is a mountain that lies in the eastern part of Nepal, on the border of Nepal and Tibet. It lies at the head of Imja Khola valley and therefore it has the name Imja Tse. The area is highly protected by Sagarmatha National Park which includes diverse flora and fauna. In 1953, the British Mount Everest expedition named this peak an Island peak. This was due to the fact that the peak actually appears as an Island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.

The Island peak is the continuation of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a col. The southwest of this peak was first climbed by Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and 7 other sherpa in 1953. It was done before just as a part of a training exercise by a British expedition that went on to Summit Mount Everest. Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten with two other Sherpas as members of the Swiss team however remains first to climb the summit that went on to make the second ascent to Mount Everest and first ascent of Lhotse.

The climb to the Island peak is technically challenging and risky, especially from the base camp. The low base camp of Island peak lies at an altitude of 5087m, and the high camp at 5600m. It is more likely to suffer mountain sickness from the base camp. The trail to the summit is heavily covered with steep snow, frozen glaciers, and ice slopes. It is very important to have strong physical and mental fitness along with the skills to use mountaineering gear.

This route takes around 20-22 days with proper rest and days off. It cost you around 900-1100$ including all your flight tickets, travel insurance, permits, food, accommodations, etc.

Highlights of Island Peak

  • Glacial walk and climbing to Island peak.
  • Experience the tented night camps.
  • Diverse flora and fauna of Sagarmatha National Park.
  • Spectacular view of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. 

Trip Map

Safety and fitness

The first important thing to understand is that Island peak is not categorized as a trekking peak. Not anyone with basic ideas can just go and start climbing. It is mandatory to have high mountaineering skills, experience, focus, and patience. Second Important thing is to choose a perfect itinerary that gives proper acclimatization to the low level of oxygen. Or else, you are going to have a huge problem of altitude sickness. And finally, great fitness, mental stability, and strength are very important. The average walking hour is 6-7 per day and the use of crampons, ice harness, ice ropes, etc are required during the climb. The way to the summit is very difficult and the summit ridge is quite airy with steep drops off to the sides. The highest altitude here is 6189m, hence, there is always a risk of mountain sickness. 

Symptoms of Mountain sickness

  • Headache
  • Dizziness
  • Loss of appetite
  • Shortness of breath
  • Fast heartbeats

Preventing mountain sickness 

  • Walk slow
  • Stay hydrated
  • Have nutritional food 
  • Have enough rest
  • Avoid smoking and alcohol 

Medicines for mountain sickness 

  • Acetazolamide 
  • Ibuprofen, paracetamol (for headache)
  • Promethazine (for nausea) 

Peak climbing Equipment List

Travel Documents  Hands
Valid Passport Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Credit/Debit Card Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves (2 Pairs)
pP Size Photo (4 Pieces) Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves)
Insurance Paper And Contact Address Summit Gloves – 8000m.
Foot Wear Sleeping Bags
Summit Boot – 8000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet ) Sleeping Bag -20OC to -30OC
Climbing Boot – 6000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet) Down Sleeping Bag -40OC (Extreme Comfort)
Normal Socks (5-8 Pairs) Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
Summit Socks/6000 m. Socks (2 Pairs) Down Mattress (Inflatable)
Trekking Shoes (Gore Tex) Sleeping Bag Liner
Light Trekking/Sports Shoes Inflatable Pillow
Camp Booties (1 Pair) Climbing Equipment
Slipper (1 Pair) Climbing Helmet
Upper Body Summit Down Suit – 8000m.
Thermal Top Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector Harness
Fleece Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide Jumar / Ascender
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs) Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs) Unlock Carabiner (2 Pcs) Tape Slings/240 cm
Wind Proof Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog, Polarized, UV Protection)
Down Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Head Light 500-700 Lumens Spare
Cotton T-Shirt (3-5 Pcs) Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Lower Body Satellite Phone With Credit (Optional)
Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole
Fleece Trouser (1-2 pcs) Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs) Altimeter Watch
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs) Pee Bottle
Gaiters for trekking boots Power Bank
Down Pants (1pcs) Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Under Wear (4-6 Pcs) Bag Packs
Sun Stuffs Rucksacks 35 L – 50 L
Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50 Spf) Duffle Bag 120 L-150 L (2 Pcs)
Lip Guard -30 to -50 (Spf) Lundry/Garbage Bag (Large)
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection) Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry Bag- Small/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs)
Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection) Medical/First Aid 
Moisturiser / Lotion Brufen / Ibuprofens
Eating & Drinking Antibiotic
1 Ltr. Water Bottle Diamox
1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos Paracetamol
Mug (Opt.) Handy Plaster
Spoon/ Fork (Opt.) Crack Bandage
Bowl (Opt.) Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous Ondem
Nail Cutter Cetirizine
Umbrella / Rain Coat Electrolyte
Hot Water Bag Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
Camera Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
GPS Tracker (Recommended) Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
Hand & Toe Warmer Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
Toiletries (Personal)  Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
Toothpaste Menstrual Products
Toothbrush Head
Soap Sun Cap
Shampoo Balaclava
Towel Fleece Hat/ Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs)
Garbage Bag Neck Gaiter (2-3 Pcs)

Payment and Cancellation

Policy regarding Payment and Cancellation Payment:

Payment:
1) To confirm a reservation, a deposit equal to 30% of the total price is required.
2) If the payment is made online, the remaining balance is due 10 days before the Tour, Trekking, Peak Climbing, or Expedition begins. If the payment is made in cash, it can be made after arrival. 3) If the booking is made within 30 days of the expedition beginning, full payment must be made at the time of booking.

Cancellation:
1)A full refund of the deposit will be given if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled more than 60 days before the start date.
2)The deposit will not be refunded if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled within 30 days of its start date.
3)A tour, trek, peak climbing, or expedition will not be refunded if it is canceled prior to or on the start date.
4)All participants should strongly consider purchasing travel insurance to cover any unforeseen cancellations or other occurrences.

Note: We reserve the right to modify or cancel any trek in the event of a natural disaster, political unrest, or any other unforeseen circumstances beyond our control. In such cases, a full refund or an alternative option will be provided.

Dates of Trip

PRICE
DEPARTURE DATE
TRIP STATUS

Group Discount Prices

No. of Persons
Price per Person
1 Person
2 Persons
3-5 Persons
6-9 Persons
10-14 Persons
15-17 Persons
17-25 Persons

Frequently Asked Questions

Temperature and weather
Climbing Island peak is possible throughout the year, beside Monsoon. However, not without its own challenges. During the spring season (March-May), the average temperature over 4000m ranges from 17 ⁰C- 25⁰C in the daytime and the minimum temperature it can have especially in the morning and night is around -15⁰C. During the autumn season (September-November), the average temperature above 4000m is around 15-20⁰C, and the minimum temperature is around -10⁰C especially in the morning and night. During the winter season (December- February), the average temperature above 4000m is around 8⁰C in the daytime and the minimum temperature is around -15⁰C. Below 4000m is quite warmer with an average temperature of 12⁰C maximum and the minimum is -5⁰C. During the monsoon season (June-August), the average temperature over 4000m is 10⁰C in daytime and -2⁰C in the nighttime. However, below 4000m is warmer with an average temperature of 18⁰C in the daytime and 2⁰C in the nighttime. Considering all the temperature, weather, and warmth the best or peak season to trek and climb Island peak is in spring and autumn. The bearable temperature, the clear skies, and atmosphere, stunning views of Rhododendrons and mountains, the best condition of the trails, all features make these seasons best for climbing.
Food and Accommodation
There are enough teahouses from Lukla which provide basic facilities like a warm room, blankets, and pillows. But they have to be shared with other trekkers as well. Also, the washroom and toilets have to be shared. They also provide home-cooked meals like Dal, Bhat, vegetables, noodles, pasta, soup, etc. However, once you arrive at the base camp, no teahouses are available and the only solution is to camp. You have to prepare food by yourself. All the equipment like tents, sleeping bags, mats, cooking gas, utensils are very much important in this trek. If you choose to travel through the agencies they will hire a cook for you and also manage the camping for nights.
Electronics and communication
When you are in the teahouses, all kinds of facilities like electricity, internet, mobile coverage, are available. There will be no problem with charging your electronics or talking to your family. Once you arrive at the base camp, all these facilities are not available. You will be camping those days and only satellite phones are used for communication. Extra batteries and power banks are highly recommended.
Permits and fees
1) Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit · NON-SAARC countries- 3000 (excluding VAT) · SAARC countries- 1500 (excluding VAT) 2) Pasang Lhamu VDC permit – 2000 NRS 3) Island peak climbing permit - Spring (March-May)-250$ - Autumn (September- November)-125$ - Winter (December- February)-70$ - Summer (June-August)-70$
Guides and porters
When it comes to peak climbing, professional, licensed, well-educated, and experienced guides are everything you need. They lead you, they have great knowledge about directions, people, villages, camping sites, etc. Since you will be carrying all the stuff for camping you will definitely need a porter to help you. Guides usually charge up to 35-40$ per day and porters charge around 25-30$ per day. However, if you choose to travel through agencies they will hire a guide and a porter for you.
Transportation
The gateway for Island peak is Lukla and the easiest and fastest way to reach Lukla is to take a flight from Kathmandu which only takes 35 minutes. You can also travel by bus but it is certainly a tiring route. There is no direct connection between Kathmandu and Lukla and you need to travel via Jiri.

Booking Details


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