Island Peak Climbing

Trip Duration

16 Days

Trip Grade

Challenging

Highest Altitude

6,189m

Accommodation

Teahouse/Lodge

Transportation

Bus/Car

Group Size

2-10

Best Season

Autumn, Spring

Island Peak Climbing Overview

Island Peak climbing entails a walk through the spectacular Khumbu Valley, passing through charming towns, lovely valleys, and breathtaking vistas. The trip ends with a climb up Island Peak, which calls for some fundamental mountaineering abilities like the use of crampons and ice axes, as well as familiarity with roped climbing methods.

Island Peak is a mountain in the eastern part of Nepal, on the border of Nepal and Tibet. It lies at the head of Imja Khola valley and has the name, Imja Tse. The area is highly protected by Sagarmatha National Park, which includes diverse flora and fauna. In 1953, the British Mount Everest expedition named this peak an Island peak. This was because the peak appears as an Island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.

The Island peak is the continuation of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar, separated by a col. Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and 7 other Sherpas first climbed the southwest of this peak in 1953. A British expedition that later summited Mount Everest had previously done it as a part of a training exercise. Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten was part of the Swiss team that first climbed the summit. Two Sherpas accompanied him. This climb was significant because it marked Mount Everest’s second ascent and Lhotse‘s first.

The Island peak climbing is technically challenging and risky, especially from the base camp. The low base camp of Island peak lies at an altitude of 5087m, and the high camp at 5600m. It is more likely to suffer mountain sickness from the base camp. Steep snow, frozen glaciers, and ice slopes heavily cover the trail to the summit. Having strong physical and mental fitness and the skills to use mountaineering gear is very important.

Highlights of Island Peak Climbing

  • Glacial walk and climbing to Island peak.
  • Experience the tented night camps.
  • Diverse flora and fauna of Sagarmatha National Park.
  • Spectacular view of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. 

Trip Map

Safety and Fitness

The first important thing to understand is that Island peak is not categorized as a trekking peak. Not anyone with basic ideas can just go and start climbing. It is mandatory to have high mountaineering skills, experience, focus, and patience.

 

The second important thing is choosing a perfect itinerary that acclimates properly to the low oxygen level. Or else you are going to have a huge problem of altitude sickness.

 

And finally, great fitness, mental stability, and strength are very important. The average walking hour is 6-7 per day, and crampons, ice harness, ice ropes, etc, are required during the climb. The way to the summit is very difficult, and the summit ridge is quite airy, with steep drops off to the sides. The highest altitude here is 6189m. Hence, there is always a risk of mountain sickness. 

 

Symptoms of Mountain sickness

  • Headache
  • Dizziness
  • Loss of appetite
  • Shortness of breath
  • Fast heartbeats

Preventing mountain sickness 

  • Walk slow
  • Stay hydrated
  • Have nutritional food 
  • Have enough rest
  • Avoid smoking and alcohol 

Medicines for mountain sickness 

  • Acetazolamide 
  • Ibuprofen, paracetamol (for headache)
  • Promethazine (for nausea) 

Peak climbing Equipment List

Travel Documents  Hands
Valid Passport Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Credit/Debit Card Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves (2 Pairs)
pP Size Photo (4 Pieces) Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves)
Insurance Paper And Contact Address Summit Gloves – 8000m.
Foot Wear Sleeping Bags
Summit Boot – 8000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet ) Sleeping Bag -20OC to -30OC
Climbing Boot – 6000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet) Down Sleeping Bag -40OC (Extreme Comfort)
Normal Socks (5-8 Pairs) Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
Summit Socks/6000 m. Socks (2 Pairs) Down Mattress (Inflatable)
Trekking Shoes (Gore Tex) Sleeping Bag Liner
Light Trekking/Sports Shoes Inflatable Pillow
Camp Booties (1 Pair) Climbing Equipment
Slipper (1 Pair) Climbing Helmet
Upper Body Summit Down Suit – 8000m.
Thermal Top Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector Harness
Fleece Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide Jumar / Ascender
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs) Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs) Unlock Carabiner (2 Pcs) Tape Slings/240 cm
Wind Proof Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog, Polarized, UV Protection)
Down Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Head Light 500-700 Lumens Spare
Cotton T-Shirt (3-5 Pcs) Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Lower Body Satellite Phone With Credit (Optional)
Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole
Fleece Trouser (1-2 pcs) Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs) Altimeter Watch
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs) Pee Bottle
Gaiters for trekking boots Power Bank
Down Pants (1pcs) Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Under Wear (4-6 Pcs) Bag Packs
Sun Stuffs Rucksacks 35 L – 50 L
Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50 Spf) Duffle Bag 120 L-150 L (2 Pcs)
Lip Guard -30 to -50 (Spf) Lundry/Garbage Bag (Large)
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection) Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry Bag- Small/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs)
Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection) Medical/First Aid 
Moisturiser / Lotion Brufen / Ibuprofens
Eating & Drinking Antibiotic
1 Ltr. Water Bottle Diamox
1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos Paracetamol
Mug (Opt.) Handy Plaster
Spoon/ Fork (Opt.) Crack Bandage
Bowl (Opt.) Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous Ondem
Nail Cutter Cetirizine
Umbrella / Rain Coat Electrolyte
Hot Water Bag Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
Camera Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
GPS Tracker (Recommended) Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
Hand & Toe Warmer Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
Toiletries (Personal)  Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
Toothpaste Menstrual Products
Toothbrush Head
Soap Sun Cap
Shampoo Balaclava
Towel Fleece Hat/ Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs)
Garbage Bag Neck Gaiter (2-3 Pcs)

Payment and Cancellation

Policy regarding Payment and Cancellation Payment:

Payment:

1) A deposit equal to 30% of the total price is required to confirm a reservation.
2) If the payment is made online, the remaining balance is due 10 days before the Tour, Trekking, Peak Climbing, or Expedition begins. If the payment is made in cash, it can be made after arrival.
3) If the booking is made within 30 days of the expedition beginning, full payment must be made at the time of booking.

 

Cancellation:

1) A full refund of the deposit will be given if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled more than 60 days before the start date.
2) The deposit will not be refunded if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled within 30 days of its start date.
3) A tour, trek, peak climbing, or expedition will not be refunded if it is canceled prior to or on the start date.
4) All participants should strongly consider purchasing travel insurance to cover any unforeseen cancellations or other occurrences.

 

Note: We reserve the right to modify or cancel any trek in the event of a natural disaster, political unrest, or any other unforeseen circumstances beyond our control. A full refund or an alternative option will be provided in such cases.

Dates of Trip

PRICE
DEPARTURE DATE
TRIP STATUS
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
March 1, 2023 - March 16, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
March 17, 2023 - April 1, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
April 2, 2023 - April 17, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
April 18, 2023 - May 3, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
May 4, 2023 - May 19, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
May 20, 2023 - June 4, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
June 5, 2023 - June 20, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
June 21, 2023 - July 6, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
July 7, 2023 - July 22, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
July 23, 2023 - August 7, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
August 8, 2023 - August 23, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
August 24, 2023 - September 7, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
September 8, 2023 - September 23, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
September 24, 2023 - October 9, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
October 10, 2023 - October 25, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
October 26, 2023 - November 10, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
November 11, 2023 - November 26, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
November 27, 2023 - December 12, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
December 13, 2023 - December 28, 2023
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
December 29, 2023 - January 13, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
January 14, 2024 - January 29, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
January 30, 2024 - February 14, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
February 15, 2024 - March 1, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
March 2, 2024 - March 17, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
March 18, 2024 - April 2, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
April 3, 2024 - April 18, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
April 19, 2024 - May 4, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
May 5, 2024 - May 20, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
May 21, 2024 - June 5, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
June 6, 2024 - June 21, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
June 22, 2024 - July 7, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
July 8, 2024 - July 23, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
July 24, 2024 - August 8, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
August 9, 2024 - August 24, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
August 25, 2024 - September 9, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
September 10, 2024 - September 25, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
September 26, 2024 - October 11, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
October 12, 2024 - October 27, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
October 28, 2024 - November 12, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
November 13, 2024 - November 28, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
November 29, 2024 - December 14, 2024
Guaranteed
1463

1330Save 133

16 Days
December 15, 2024 - December 30, 2024
Guaranteed

Group Discount Prices

No. of Persons
Price per Person
1 Person
2 Persons
3-5 Persons
6-9 Persons
10-14 Persons
15-17 Persons
17-25 Persons

Frequently Asked Questions

Temperature and weather
Climbing Island peak is possible throughout the year, beside Monsoon. However, not without its own challenges. During the spring season (March-May), the average temperature over 4000m ranges from 17 ⁰C- 25⁰C in the daytime and the minimum temperature it can have especially in the morning and night is around -15⁰C. During the autumn season (September-November), the average temperature above 4000m is around 15-20⁰C, and the minimum temperature is around -10⁰C especially in the morning and night. During the winter season (December- February), the average temperature above 4000m is around 8⁰C in the daytime and the minimum temperature is around -15⁰C. Below 4000m is quite warmer with an average temperature of 12⁰C maximum and the minimum is -5⁰C. During the monsoon season (June-August), the average temperature over 4000m is 10⁰C in daytime and -2⁰C in the nighttime. However, below 4000m is warmer with an average temperature of 18⁰C in the daytime and 2⁰C in the nighttime. Considering all the temperature, weather, and warmth the best or peak season to trek and climb Island peak is in spring and autumn. The bearable temperature, the clear skies, and atmosphere, stunning views of Rhododendrons and mountains, the best condition of the trails, all features make these seasons best for climbing.
Food and Accommodation
There are enough teahouses from Lukla which provide basic facilities like a warm room, blankets, and pillows. But they have to be shared with other trekkers as well. Also, the washroom and toilets have to be shared. They also provide home-cooked meals like Dal, Bhat, vegetables, noodles, pasta, soup, etc. However, once you arrive at the base camp, no teahouses are available and the only solution is to camp. You have to prepare food by yourself. All the equipment like tents, sleeping bags, mats, cooking gas, utensils are very much important in this trek. If you choose to travel through the agencies they will hire a cook for you and also manage the camping for nights.
Electronics and communication
When you are in the teahouses, all kinds of facilities like electricity, internet, mobile coverage, are available. There will be no problem with charging your electronics or talking to your family. Once you arrive at the base camp, all these facilities are not available. You will be camping those days and only satellite phones are used for communication. Extra batteries and power banks are highly recommended.
Permits and fees
1) Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit · NON-SAARC countries- 3000 (excluding VAT) · SAARC countries- 1500 (excluding VAT) 2) Pasang Lhamu VDC permit – 2000 NRS 3) Island peak climbing permit - Spring (March-May)-250$ - Autumn (September- November)-125$ - Winter (December- February)-70$ - Summer (June-August)-70$
Guides and porters
When it comes to peak climbing, professional, licensed, well-educated, and experienced guides are everything you need. They lead you, they have great knowledge about directions, people, villages, camping sites, etc. Since you will be carrying all the stuff for camping you will definitely need a porter to help you. Guides usually charge up to 35-40$ per day and porters charge around 25-30$ per day. However, if you choose to travel through agencies they will hire a guide and a porter for you.
Transportation
The gateway for Island peak is Lukla and the easiest and fastest way to reach Lukla is to take a flight from Kathmandu which only takes 35 minutes. You can also travel by bus but it is certainly a tiring route. There is no direct connection between Kathmandu and Lukla and you need to travel via Jiri.

Booking Details


Price: US$1330 per person
  • A detailed certificate from Marvel Treks and Expedition (after accomplishment)
  • A complimentary raincoat to shed you during the rainy season.
  • A Complimentary Duffel Bag throughout the trek from our company. (returnable)
  • A warm complimentary Down Jacket during the entire trek on behalf of Marvel Treks. (returnable)
  • A complimentary sleeping bag for your icy trek. (returnable)
  • The essential climbing gear like mountain axe, trekking sticks, etc, for your need throughout the trek. (returnable)
  • Delightful complimentary Authentic Nepali cuisine as dinner to embark on your arrival and departure
  • Critical complimentary First Aid Service (in times of need)
  • An informative trekking map for you to cherish on behalf of our company
  • Trendy Sunhat and t-shirt as souvenirs on behalf of Marvel Treks and Expedition.
  • All the crucial services about airport transfer to and from the hotel via a private tourist vehicle ($40)
  • Our company will accommodate the Garbage Disposal System. ($500)
  • Climbing Permit for Peak Climbing ($250)
  • TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management Systems )($10)
  • National park entry fees / ACAP permits / Conservation entry fees. ( $30)
  • All essential local tax and office service charges Gov tax ($100 )
  • 2 nights accommodation in a Kathmandu (Kathmandu hotel or similar) ($40)
  • Porter Service ($350)
  • Miscellaneous ($10)

  • Marvel Treks and Expedition won’t be responsible for all the Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Extra nights in any city that’s not accommodated in the Marvel Treks and Expedition itinerary.
  • Summit bonus (250 USD)
  • All the International flight checks and airfares.
  • Marvel Treks and Expedition won’t be responsible for alcoholic/ non-alcoholic liquors.
  • Additional porter fees along with tips of guides and porters.
  • Tips for Climbing Sherpa (200 USD)
  • Electronic gadgets like chargers, headphones.
  • Individual costs like a hot shower, phone calls, laundry, souvenirs.
  • Travel coverage and emergency evacuations.
  • Tips for our staff’s drivers.

Island Peak Climbing

$1,330.00 $1,330.00,

Drive from Kathmandu to Ramechhap
($100.00)
Ramechhap to Lukla (vice versa)
($320.00)
Food in mountain
($490.00)
Standard Amenities and Services in Mountain Tented Accommodations and Trekking Guest House
($140.00)
Trekking Guide Service
($490.00)
Lunch/Dinner in Kathmandu
($40.00)
Helicopter from Base Camp to Lukla
($1,000.00)
Climbing Sherpa
($490.00)
Climbing and Camping Service
($250.00)
Kathmandu to Lukla (vice versa)
($390.00)


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