Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition

Trip Duration

32 Days

Trip Grade

Extreme

Highest Altitude

7495m

Accommodation

Teahouse/Lodge, Tented Camp

Transportation

Bus/Car

Group Size

2-10

Best Season

Autumn, Spring

Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition Overview

The highest peak in Pamir and the former USSR is Ismoil Somoni Peak. Evgeny Abalakov made the first ascent to the summit in 1933 while participating in the Tajik-Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences from a glacier Camp. The climb to the mountain requires extreme fitness, knowledge of technical climbing techniques, and familiarity with ice climbing. A lot of side peak climbing is necessary for acclimatization training.

The Pamir region’s northern-western region is home to Ismoil Somoni peak. Stalin Peak was its earlier name until 1962 when it got the rename as Communism Peak. A Soviet-German scientific expedition found the peak in 1928. The mountain got the new name of Ismail Somoni peak in 1999, when Tajikistan gained independence. This name was in honor of Ismail Samani of the Samanid Dynasty.

The journey presents its difficulties despite being packed with thrills and excitement. Therefore, it is impossible to reach the summit without the proper instructions and preparations effectively. It is where Marvel Trek comes into the picture.

The entire Marvel Trek staff makes a conscious effort to offer you the most excellent services and amenities and ensure you will have an unforgettable trip.

Marvel Trek is a licensed expedition company. It has provided its climbers with the best facilities and services since 1998, along with some great experiences. We not only keep your safety as the priority. But also guide you to fulfill your wish of experiencing the thrill of climbing a mountain. The entire team of Marvel Trek is full of professionals who will be there to support and guide you throughout your mountaineering adventures.

Highlights of Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition

Some highlights of expeditions to Ismoil Somoni Peak include:

  • The first successful summit of the mountain in 1933 by a Soviet expedition.
  • The first winter ascent of the mountain, which was achieved by a Soviet team in 1988.
  • The first ascent of the mountain by a woman, which was achieved by Tamara Larina of the Soviet Union in 1978.
  • The first ascent of the mountain by a double amputee, which was achieved by Mark Inglis of New Zealand in 2007.
  • The oldest person to reach the summit of the mountain, which was achieved by Kurt Diemberger of Austria at the age of 80 in 2007.
  • These are just a few examples of the many highlights and achievements of expeditions to Ismoil Somoni Peak. The mountain continues to attract climbers from around the world, and new records and achievements are constantly being set.

Trip Map

Expedition Equipment List

Travel Documents  Hands
Valid Passport Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Credit/Debit Card Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves (2 Pairs)
pP Size Photo (4 Pieces) Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves)
Insurance Paper And Contact Address Summit Gloves – 8000m.
Foot Wear Sleeping Bags
Summit Boot – 8000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet ) Sleeping Bag -20OC to -30OC
Climbing Boot – 6000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet) Down Sleeping Bag -40OC (Extreme Comfort)
Normal Socks (5-8 Pairs) Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)
Summit Socks/6000 m. Socks (2 Pairs) Down Mattress (Inflatable)
Trekking Shoes (Gore Tex) Sleeping Bag Liner
Light Trekking/Sports Shoes Inflatable Pillow
Camp Booties (1 Pair) Climbing Equipment
Slipper (1 Pair) Climbing Helmet
Upper Body Summit Down Suit – 8000m.
Thermal Top Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector Harness
Fleece Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide Jumar / Ascender
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs) Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs) Unlock Carabiner (2 Pcs) Tape Slings/240 cm
Wind Proof Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog, Polarized, UV Protection)
Down Jacket (1-2 Pcs) Head Light 500-700 Lumens Spare
Cotton T-Shirt (3-5 Pcs) Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Lower Body Satellite Phone With Credit (Optional)
Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole
Fleece Trouser (1-2 pcs) Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs) Altimeter Watch
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs) Pee Bottle
Gaiters for trekking boots Power Bank
Down Pants (1pcs) Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Under Wear (4-6 Pcs) Bag Packs
Sun Stuffs Rucksacks 35 L – 50 L
Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50 Spf) Duffle Bag 120 L-150 L (2 Pcs)
Lip Guard -30 to -50 (Spf) Lundry/Garbage Bag (Large)
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection) Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry Bag- Small/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs)
Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection) Medical/First Aid 
Moisturiser / Lotion Brufen / Ibuprofens
Eating & Drinking Antibiotic
1 Ltr. Water Bottle Diamox
1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos Paracetamol
Mug (Opt.) Handy Plaster
Spoon/ Fork (Opt.) Crack Bandage
Bowl (Opt.) Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous Ondem
Nail Cutter Cetirizine
Umbrella / Rain Coat Electrolyte
Hot Water Bag Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
Camera Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
GPS Tracker (Recommended) Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
Hand & Toe Warmer Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
Toiletries (Personal)  Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
Toothpaste Menstrual Products
Toothbrush Head
Soap Sun Cap
Shampoo Balaclava
Towel Fleece Hat/ Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs)
Garbage Bag Neck Gaiter (2-3 Pcs)

Payment and cancellation

Policy regarding Payment and Cancellation Payment:

Payment:
1) To confirm a reservation, a deposit equal to 30% of the total price is required.
2) If the payment is made online, the remaining balance is due 10 days before the Tour, Trekking, Peak Climbing, or Expedition begins. If the payment is made in cash, it can be made after arrival. 3) If the booking is made within 30 days of the expedition beginning, full payment must be made at the time of booking.

Cancellation:
1)A full refund of the deposit will be given if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled more than 60 days before the start date.
2)The deposit will not be refunded if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled within 30 days of its start date.
3)A tour, trek, peak climbing, or expedition will not be refunded if it is canceled prior to or on the start date.
4)All participants should strongly consider purchasing travel insurance to cover any unforeseen cancellations or other occurrences.

Note: We reserve the right to modify or cancel any trek in the event of a natural disaster, political unrest, or any other unforeseen circumstances beyond our control. In such cases, a full refund or an alternative option will be provided.

Dates of Trip

PRICE
DEPARTURE DATE
TRIP STATUS
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 11, 2023 - August 11, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 12, 2023 - August 12, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 25, 2023 - August 25, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 26, 2023 - August 26, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 8, 2023 - September 8, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 9, 2023 - September 9, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 15, 2023 - September 15, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 16, 2023 - September 16, 2023
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 11, 2024 - August 11, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 12, 2024 - August 12, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 25, 2024 - August 25, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 26, 2024 - August 26, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 8, 2024 - September 8, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 9, 2024 - September 9, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 15, 2024 - September 15, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 16, 2024 - September 16, 2024
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 11, 2025 - August 11, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 12, 2025 - August 12, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 25, 2025 - August 25, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
July 26, 2025 - August 26, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 8, 2025 - September 8, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 9, 2025 - September 9, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 15, 2025 - September 15, 2025
Guaranteed
4950

4500Save 450

32 Days
August 16, 2025 - September 16, 2025
Guaranteed

Group Discount Prices

No. of Persons
Price per Person
1 Persons
2 Persons
3-5 Persons
6-9 Persons
10-14 Persons
15-17 Persons
17-25 Persons

Frequently Asked Questions

Temperature/weather forecast/Altitude
The temperature is warm and dry during summer while extremely cold during winter Weather forecast from the Meteotest, located in Bern, Switzerland. The climb will be above 7,000m
Best season to climb (seasonal overview)
Summer is the best season to climb which falls in June, July and September. The weather is chill and dry during this season, and climbers can win the summit with less difficulty.
Duration
The duration of the expedition is 32 days, which is a medium duration.
Food, oxygen and accommodation facilities (tea house/tent, etc.)
Quality food will be served three times a day, along with warm and comfortable accommodation throughout the 32 days long trip. In the city area, comfortable hotels will be arranged, and in the mountains, separate tents for sleeping, dining, communication etc will be set up. Tea and coffee will also be served for you to enjoy the trip even more. Required oxygen masks will be provided, and regulators and extra cylinders will be carried in case of emergencies. Rest days, along with acclimatization climb will be arranged in other less tall peaks.
Clothing & equipment
The company won't be providing personal items, so you have to carry your warm clothes and other necessary items. Clients should also bear their trekking or climbing gear based on the equipment list provided.
Guide/Sherpas/porter/team members
The entire team of Marvel Trek comprises experts and professional mountaineers who have been climbing mountains for ages and know the mountain well. Every client will be facilitated with one experienced and licensed Sherpa to guide them. Also, there are experienced and skilled cooks who will be making sure that you get a healthy warm meal every day.
Communication and electronics (phone/ internet)
The climbers will get satellite phones to communicate.
Transportation
Besides the international flights to reach Tajikistan, all the travelling expenses, including the helicopter ride, will be included in the travelling package.
Safety/security
Medical equipment and safety tools will always be on standby in case of emergencies.
Permits and fees along with requirements such as visa/passports, insurance, etc.
Climbers should carry their passports and should have mountaineering insurance. Besides this, the company will pay for the air cargo charges and all the taxes to the government of Tajikistan on your behalf. The company will also take care of different Royalties and permits from the government of Tajikistan. Permits for satellite phones will also be added. Additional fees will be paid for the deposition of garbage

Booking Details


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