Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition
32 Days
Extreme
7495 m
Teahouse/Lodge, Tented Camp
Bus/Car
2-10
Autumn, Spring
Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition Overview
The highest peak in Pamir and the former USSR is Ismoil Somoni Peak. Evgeny Abalakov made the first ascent to the summit in 1933 while participating in the Tajik-Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences from a glacier Camp. The Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition requires extreme fitness, technical climbing techniques knowledge, and ice climbing familiarity. A lot of side peak climbing is necessary for acclimatization training.
The Pamir region‘s northern-western region is home to Ismoil Somoni peak. Stalin Peak was its earlier name until 1962, when it got the rename as Communism Peak. A Soviet-German scientific expedition found the peak in 1928. The mountain got the new name of Ismail Somoni peak in 1999, when Tajikistan gained independence. This name was in honor of Ismail Samani of the Samanid Dynasty.
The Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition typically begins in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, where climbers will arrange transportation to the mountain base. From there, they will begin the challenging climb to the summit.
The Expedition offers breathtaking views of the Pamir Mountains and a sense of accomplishment for those who reach the summit. It is a challenging but rewarding experience for experienced mountaineers seeking a new adventure.
The journey presents its difficulties despite being packed with thrills and excitement. Therefore, reaching the summit without the proper instructions and preparations is impossible. It is where Marvel Trek comes into the picture. The entire Marvel Trek staff consciously tries to offer you the most excellent services and amenities and ensure an unforgettable trip.
Marvel Treks is a licensed expedition company. It has provided its climbers with the best facilities and services since 1998 and some great experiences. We not only keep your safety as the priority. But also guide you to fulfill your wish of experiencing the thrill of climbing a mountain. The entire team of Marvel Treks is full of professionals who will support and guide you throughout your mountaineering adventures.
Highlights of Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition
- The first successful summit of the mountain in 1933 by a Soviet expedition.
- A Soviet team achieved the first winter ascent of the mountain in 1988.
- The first ascent of the mountain by a woman, which Tamara Larina of the Soviet Union achieved in 1978.
- Mark Inglis of New Zealand achieved the first ascent of the mountain by a double amputee in 2007.
- The oldest person reached the mountain’s summit, which Kurt Diemberger of Austria, achieved at 80 in 2007.
Gallery of Ismoil Somoni Peak Expedition
Outline Itinerary
- Day 1: Arriving at International Airport in Dushanbe, Tajikistan and transferring to Dzhirguital
- Day 2: Flying to 4400m Basecamp at Moskvin Meadow through helicopter
- Day 3-4: Rest days to adjust in the high altitude and low temperature
- Day 5-6: Climbing 5,685 m tall Vorobiova Peak for acclimatization
- Day 7: Resting and preparing for the next acclimatization climb
- Day 8-10: Climbing 6,230m tall Chetyrekh Peak for acclimatization
- Day 11-12: Resting and preparing for the next acclimatization climb
- Day 13-17: Climbing 7,105m tall Korzhenevskaya Peak for acclimatization
- Day 18-19: Resting and preparing for the actual climb
- Day 20-25: Climbing Ismoil Somoni peak
- Day 26-29: Reserve days in case of occurrence of bad weather
- Day 30-31: Flying back to Dzhirguital and Dushanbe
- Day 32: Flying back home
Trip Map
Expedition Equipment List
| Travel Documents | Hands |
| Valid Passport | Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs) |
| Credit/Debit Card | Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves (2 Pairs) |
| pP Size Photo (4 Pieces) | Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves) |
| Insurance Paper And Contact Address | Summit Gloves – 8000m. |
| Foot Wear | Sleeping Bags |
| Summit Boot – 8000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet ) | Sleeping Bag -20OC to -30OC |
| Climbing Boot – 6000m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet) | Down Sleeping Bag -40OC (Extreme Comfort) |
| Normal Socks (5-8 Pairs) | Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam) |
| Summit Socks/6000 m. Socks (2 Pairs) | Down Mattress (Inflatable) |
| Trekking Shoes (Gore Tex) | Sleeping Bag Liner |
| Light Trekking/Sports Shoes | Inflatable Pillow |
| Camp Booties (1 Pair) | Climbing Equipment |
| Slipper (1 Pair) | Climbing Helmet |
| Upper Body | Summit Down Suit – 8000m. |
| Thermal Top Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) | Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector Harness |
| Fleece Jacket (1-2 Pcs) | Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide Jumar / Ascender |
| Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs) | Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs) Unlock Carabiner (2 Pcs) Tape Slings/240 cm |
| Wind Proof Jacket (1-2 Pcs) | Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog, Polarized, UV Protection) |
| Down Jacket (1-2 Pcs) | Head Light 500-700 Lumens Spare |
| Cotton T-Shirt (3-5 Pcs) | Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium) |
| Lower Body | Satellite Phone With Credit (Optional) |
| Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) | Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole |
| Fleece Trouser (1-2 pcs) | Pocket Knife (Swiss) |
| Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs) | Altimeter Watch |
| Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs) | Pee Bottle |
| Gaiters for trekking boots | Power Bank |
| Down Pants (1pcs) | Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover |
| Under Wear (4-6 Pcs) | Bag Packs |
| Sun Stuffs | Rucksacks 35 L – 50 L |
| Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50 Spf) | Duffle Bag 120 L-150 L (2 Pcs) |
| Lip Guard -30 to -50 (Spf) | Lundry/Garbage Bag (Large) |
| Sun Glasses (Uv Protection) | Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry Bag- Small/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs) |
| Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection) | Medical/First Aid |
| Moisturiser / Lotion | Brufen / Ibuprofens |
| Eating & Drinking | Antibiotic |
| 1 Ltr. Water Bottle | Diamox |
| 1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos | Paracetamol |
| Mug (Opt.) | Handy Plaster |
| Spoon/ Fork (Opt.) | Crack Bandage |
| Bowl (Opt.) | Tincture Iodine |
| Miscellaneous | Ondem |
| Nail Cutter | Cetirizine |
| Umbrella / Rain Coat | Electrolyte |
| Hot Water Bag | Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety) |
| Camera | Codopar (Headache & chest pain) |
| GPS Tracker (Recommended) | Salbetol 4mg (Breathless) |
| Hand & Toe Warmer | Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days) |
| Toiletries (Personal) | Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection) |
| Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue | Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil) |
| Toothpaste | Menstrual Products |
| Toothbrush | Head |
| Soap | Sun Cap |
| Shampoo | Balaclava |
| Towel | Fleece Hat/ Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs) |
| Garbage Bag | Neck Gaiter (2-3 Pcs) |
Payment and cancellation
Policy regarding Payment and Cancellation Payment:
Payment:
1) A deposit equal to 30% of the total price is required to confirm a reservation.
2) If the payment is made online, the remaining balance is due 10 days before the Tour, Trekking, Peak Climbing, or Expedition begins. If the payment is made in cash, it can be made after arrival.
3) If the booking is made within 30 days of the expedition beginning, full payment must be made at the time of booking.
Cancellation:
1) A full refund of the deposit will be given if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled more than 60 days before the start date.
2) The deposit will not be refunded if a Tour, Trek, Peak Climbing, or Expedition is canceled within 30 days of its start date.
3) A tour, trek, peak climbing, or expedition will not be refunded if it is canceled prior to or on the start date.
4) All participants should strongly consider purchasing travel insurance to cover any unforeseen cancellations or other occurrences.
Note: We reserve the right to modify or cancel any trek in the event of a natural disaster, political unrest, or any other unforeseen circumstances beyond our control. A full refund or an alternative option will be provided in such cases.
Dates of Trip
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July 11, 2023 - August 11, 2023
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July 12, 2023 - August 12, 2023
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July 25, 2023 - August 25, 2023
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July 26, 2023 - August 26, 2023
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August 8, 2023 - September 8, 2023
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August 9, 2023 - September 9, 2023
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August 15, 2023 - September 15, 2023
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August 16, 2023 - September 16, 2023
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July 11, 2024 - August 11, 2024
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July 12, 2024 - August 12, 2024
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July 25, 2024 - August 25, 2024
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July 26, 2024 - August 26, 2024
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August 8, 2024 - September 8, 2024
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August 9, 2024 - September 9, 2024
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August 15, 2024 - September 15, 2024
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August 16, 2024 - September 16, 2024
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July 11, 2025 - August 11, 2025
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July 12, 2025 - August 12, 2025
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July 25, 2025 - August 25, 2025
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July 26, 2025 - August 26, 2025
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August 8, 2025 - September 8, 2025
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August 9, 2025 - September 9, 2025
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August 15, 2025 - September 15, 2025
4500Save 450
August 16, 2025 - September 16, 2025
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