Ama Dablam Climbing [The Essential Guide]
Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition is a renowned adventurous climbing tour for the world-class steep peak that involves climbing Mt. Ama Dablam which is the most symbolic mountain of the Everest region. The most notable thing about this mountain and its imposing height is that it is 6,812 meters, which makes it a great challenge for climbers for it is highly technical rock climbing and steep pitches of ice and snow. This climbing demands from its members extreme physical abilities, technical skills, and a love for adventure.
Flying from Kathmandu to Lukla is a normal procedure, and you will be on your way to the start. These flights may be spoiled and delayed by the weather permanently here. So choose the best season for climbing. With all trials, it is necessary to count your blessings. It is quite a tough walk and tests your physical fitness, also putting you at the top of the world with the spectacular scenery.
Along the way, you will come across unique Buddhist monasteries, traditional Sherpa villages, and colourful local markets. These will add to your experience while still exploring cultural spots. At the end, the trek will take you to Pangboche, the only town next to the Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Arriving in Pangboche, it will be another 4 hours of walking to our base camp. After it starts the climb splits up into three or four parts with Camps I, II, III and the summit push. Of course, the most demanding thing about the whole trip is perhaps the walk to and up and down the camps, including the summit ascent.
Knowing the ropes like how to use an ice axe and fixing ropes becomes compulsory for every mountaineer. Overcoming the Mushroom Ridge indeed requires being proficient in mountaineering. The following few days will be useful for acclimatization and for going to all mountain camps, sleeping in them and back to the Base Camp.
Dablam visitors get to gaze at some of the most spectacular landscapes one can ever dream of looking at such as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam among others.
How Do I Prepare to Climb Ama Dablam?
Carefully designing a preparatory plan for the Ama Dablam expedition is a crucial stage of a successful journey. In order to cope with the numerous problems this peak presents, you must endure a long and strict preparation process.
The type of training should prioritize the building of strength, endurance and agility, with the combination of cardio workouts, strength training and high elevation simulation. Otherwise, work on your mountaineering skills because these are a must-have, like ice climbing, rope fixing, and ice crevasses rescue techniques.
Training by a mental attitude is also important; therefore, the climber needs to develop fortitude, stamina, and adaptability to deal with unpredictable situations which may occur during high-altitude climbing. Get used to hikes and climbs as much as you can as this also helps your mind and body.
Another thing is to make sure that you have the necessary stuff and learn about how different things work before embarking on the trip. The more effort you will provide the more you will prepare yourself for the summit of Ama Dablam increasing your chances of a successful summit.
Is Ama Dablam Mountain Dangerous?
Although Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the most challenging ones, it is counted among the alpine-style expeditions. This is a metaphor for the fact that climbers deal with more difficult routes, overstep snow slopes, and vertical ice walls.
Although it is known to be more difficult to do the Mera Peak expedition than the Everest region or the neighbouring places which are famous for their trails, it is still comparable. There are technical sections and challenges with enough planning and preparation many climbers have successfully climbed this expedition.
Trekking Route of Climbing Ama Dablam
Multiple various routes are available for the Ama Dablam expedition. Though, the most well-known route is called “The Southwest Ridge Route,” which was conquered in 1961 by a team of climbers from the U.S.A. and New Zealand working together.
Since then, the southwest route has become the choice for all the climbers who love to explore the Ama Dablam expedition. Until the base camp, the trail paths are easy. Then the rest of the climb is divided into three to four sections. The most difficult part is this one from base camp to summit.
Base Camp to Camp I is just over 1,000 meters (3,300 feet), which you can manage in about four to eight hours. Camp I to Camp II covers just over 300 meters (980 feet) in two to five hours. Camp II to Camp III is a three to six-hour endeavour and arguably the most challenging of your trip. The final push from Camp III to the summit is another four to six-hour affair.
Best Season to Trek to Ama Dablam Mountain?
Different seasons bring their own set of challenges and adventures depending upon the level of experience, preference and weather conditions. The Ama Dablam expedition is possible to do in spring, autumn and winter seasons except the rainy season. Due to heavy rainfall in the summer, chances of a flash flood, avalanche, slippery trail, bugs, insects and sudden change in the temperature we suggest you avoid climbing in summer. Winter is too cold and chilly so the ideal climb to trek is during the month of spring and autumn season.
Spring (Mid-April-May)
During spring you can find greenery everywhere and the blooming of rhododendron flowers in the forest, a clear view of the sky, magnificent view of towering peaks add to the beauty of the trek. Also, milder temperatures and long sunlight help the climber to reach the destination in a frame.
You can expect a large number of climbing groups on the trail path and it is difficult to find accommodation if not booked early. Spring can also bring occasional rainfall therefore we must be prepared for all weather conditions.
Autumn (September – November)
Autumn is another popular time for climbing the Ama Dablam expedition. With the stable weather conditions, clear view of the sky, crisp air and stunning views of Ama Dablam most people love to trek during autumn.
Another benefit of trekking during the autumn is you can immerse yourself in Nepal’s big festivals ( Dashian and Tihar). We suggest you get the permit and book accommodation early as this season is also called peak season. Early Winter (December – January)
Early Winter( December to January)
The temperature in the winter in the high altitude areas drops significantly. The chances of heavy snowfall and icy paths make it difficult to navigate. Also due to less number of people visiting during this month the number of tea houses will not be fully operated. During this season you have to prepare well to deal with extreme cold temperatures and you must equip yourself with the right gear, clothes and equipment. We suggest you trek early in December as the temperature is not too cold like in January and February.
Itinerary
Let’s see the itinerary that you can expect during the Ama Dablam Expedition. The itinerary can be changed according to your interests and personal desires. However, you need to consult with our expert team to ensure careful planning and coordination.
- Arrival in Kathmandu (1,320m/4,330ft): Your journey starts when you arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital.
- Preparation Day in Kathmandu: Spend a day getting ready for your climb, like getting permits and checking gear. You can also check out Kathmandu’s cool places.
- Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding: Take a scenic flight to Lukla and then hike to Phakding, a little village up at 2,610 meters.
- Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,443m/11,299ft): Walk through forests and over cool bridges to get to Namche Bazaar, a neat town where you can get used to the higher altitude.
- Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar: Spend a day here getting used to the higher altitude. You can explore around and hike a bit to help your body adjust.
- Trek to Debuche: Keep hiking through pretty landscapes and forests to reach Debuche.
- Trek to Pheriche: Trek to Pheriche, is a small village with amazing mountain views.
- More Acclimatization: Take another day to let your body get used to the high altitude. You can go on short hikes and rest up for the big climb.
- Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,570m/14,993ft): Hike up to the base camp, where your climb starts. The views of the mountain are incredible.
- Training Day at Base Camp: Get more used to the altitude and learn climbing techniques and safety stuff.
- Climbing Ama Dablam (6,814m/22,355ft): Spend these days going up and down Ama Dablam. It’s tough, with tricky parts and using ropes and gear. The climb goes from the base camp (4,600m/15,000ft) to Camp I (5,700m/18,700ft), then to Camp II (6,000m/19,685ft), and finally to Camp III (6,277m/20,594ft) before reaching the summit (6,812m/22,349ft). Then you’ll return to base camp, following the same route.
- Trek back to Namche Bazaar: After climbing, head back down to Namche Bazaar.
- Trek to Lukla: Keep heading down to Lukla, where you started your trek.
- Fly back to Kathmandu: Take a flight back to Kathmandu from Lukla.
- Rest Day in Kathmandu: Chill out or explore the city. Later, enjoy a farewell dinner at a nice restaurant.
- Final Departure: Your Ama Dablam adventure ends when you leave Kathmandu.
Safety Measures and Regulations for Climbing Ama Dablam
- Obtain all necessary permits and adhere to regulations set by local authorities and mountaineering associations.
- Prioritize the use of experienced guides and support teams familiar with the terrain.
- Practice proper acclimatization techniques to mitigate altitude sickness risks.
- Carry appropriate gear and supplies to prepare for unpredictable weather conditions.
- Respect environmental regulations to minimize impact on the fragile ecosystem.
- Maintain open communication with your team and be prepared to adjust plans to prioritize safety.
Ama Dablam Climbing Packing List
Climbing Gear:
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Carabiners (locking and non-locking)
- Climbing helmet
- Prusik cords or mechanical ascenders
- Climbing rope
- Alpine climbing rack
- Ice screws
Clothing Items
Head:
- Warm hat
- Sun hat or cap
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Buff or scarf
Upper Body:
- Moisture-wicking base layers (long-sleeve shirts)
- Insulating layers (fleece jacket, down jacket)
- Waterproof and windproof jacket
- Thermal underwear (for colder nights)
Lower Body:
- Trekking pants and shorts
- Waterproof and windproof pants
- Thermal underwear (for colder nights)
- Hiking socks (wool or synthetic)
Feet:
- Sturdy and comfortable hiking boots
- Camp shoes or sandals (for relaxing in teahouses)
- Gaiters (for snow or mud protection)
- Hiking socks (wool or synthetic)
Toiletries
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Biodegradable soap
- Quick-dry towel
- Sunscreen and lip balm with SPF
- Personal hygiene items
Miscellaneous Items
- Backpack with rain cover
- Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)
- Sleeping mat or pad
- Trekking poles
- Headlamp or flashlight with extra batteries
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Water purification tablets or filter
Electronic Items:
- Camera or smartphone for capturing memories
- Portable charger or solar charger
- Any other electronic devices you may need
Permits Required for Ama Dablam Climbing
The cost of the climbing permit depends upon the peak and the season you choose. For Ama Dablam, you need to obtain a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association of Nepal(NMA).
Having the permit is like a green signal, any mountaineers who wish to climb this peak need to have the permit before they begin their journey in the mountain region. Your trekking agency will help you to obtain the climbing permit and local permit on your behalf and it is also necessary to climb through the registered trekking agencies in Nepal.
Let’s see the cost of climbing permits season-wise.
- The cost of a climbing permit in the spring season costs you 400$
- The cost of a climbing permit in autumn costs you 400$
- The cost of a climbing permit in winter costs you 200$
- The cost of a climbing permit in summer/monsoon costs you 200$
Along with the climbing permit, you need to also have two local permit
- The TIMS Card ( which will cost you 20$)
- Sagarmatha National Park Permit( which will cost you 28$)
How Much Does Ama Dablam Expedition Cost
There are several factors which add to the overall cost of the Ama Dablam expedition. In general, the total cost for the Expedition will be anywhere between 5000-10000$ per person. There are certain things that you need to know before budgeting for Ama Dablam’s cost which will not be included in the package like international airfare, tips, buying souvenirs, domestic flight fare, food while staying in the city area, entry fee for visiting heritage sites in Nepal. Let’s see in detail about the cost.
Travel visa
You need to have a travel visa to enter Nepal. Getting the visa process is easy here, you can get an arrival visa inside the airport from the department of immigration office.
- The cost of a visa for 15 days will cost you 30$
- The cost of a visa for 30 days will cost you 50$
- The cost of the visa for 90 days will cost you 125$
Travel Insurance
The cost of travel insurance depends upon the number of days and other several factors. You cannot do the travel insurance here in Nepal, so make sure to do it in your home country. Make sure it covers all the things and purchase only when it meets the expectation.
Permit
A climbing permit and a local permit are required for this expedition. In total, it will cost you around $500-600. Your trekking agency will get the permit on your behalf. You don’t have to worry about the cost and getting a permit as it will be included in the package.
Guide and Porter
Hiring a guide and porter is extremely important for this expedition to make your journey safe and smooth. Completing the Ama Dablam expedition without the help of a guide and porter is almost next to impossible. Hiring the guide will cost you around 30-35$ per day per guide and for the porter it will cost you 25-30$.
International Flight Airfare
The cost of the international flight depends upon the distance, class of service and season of travelling you choose. You need to manage the budget for the international flight as it will not be included in the package.
Domestic Flight Cost/ Road Transportation
If you wish to reach Lukla by flight then you need to purchase the flight ticket which will cost you around $280 to USD 500 per person(round trip). The flight cost depends upon the season you choose.
If you want to save the budget and want to enjoy your journey avoiding flights then you can hire a private jeep or car. The cost of hiring a private vehicle is around $200-300. Ground transportation costs will be included in the package.
Food and Accommodation cost
Your trekking agency will book the hotel and tea house for staying in the mountain region. Also, the tent will be managed by the trekking agency expert team. The cost of the food and accommodation depends upon the number of itinerary days and the level of service you want. Food and accommodation costs will be included in the package however if you wish to have standard service then you might need to add extra bucks.
Equipment and Gears Cost
Another important thing that you need to consider while trekking in the mountain region is buying or renting gear and equipment. You can rent items like sleeping bags, hiking boots, trekking poles etc. Some of these items might be provided by your trekking agency so confirm first before renting the items. Other things like hiking shirts, sunglasses, and a backpack you need to buy on your own. You can easily buy these items from the shop of Thamel. Renting the items will reduce the overall cost of the budget but if you buy it can cost you from 300-500$.
Travel Insurance
Purchasing travel insurance, especially for the high altitude trekking/climbing in the mountain region is must have. This climbing poses several types of risks such as high altitude sickness, avalanches, and injuries while walking in difficult terrain. If anything goes wrong during the climbing your travel insurance must cover the emergency helicopter evacuation for immediate treatment in the city area from the mountain region.
Also, emergency medical treatment, flight cancellation, loss or theft of personal belongings, and injuries should be covered by your insurance. Getting travel insurance not only gives you financial protection but also helps to give you peace of mind knowing that your insurance will cover you during unseen circumstances.
Conclusion
Ama Dablam is a dream palace for adventurous lovers. Many mountain climbers include Ama Dablam on their bucket lists due to its thrilling and challenging nature. Also, some climbers used this peak as a training ground for big expeditions like Everest. The stunning view of the world’s highest mountain and several other peaks are the main highlights of this expedition.
Due to strenuous and technical climbing in high-altitude areas, you need to have a proper plan and preparation. Climbers need to have basic mountaineering skills. With enough planning and preparation, nothing is impossible. If you have any inquiries or want to know more about peak climbing then you can contact us or WhatsApp.
FAQs on Ama Dablam climbing
Is Ama Dablam for Beginners?
If you are trekking for the first time in the high altitude or first time climbing then Ama Dablam is not for you. Ama Dablam is full of thrill and technical involvement with a lot of steep climbing, in rock/ice/snow and exposed sections not in the low altitude but at the high altitude of above 6500m.
For the beginners trekkers you can do Yala Peak 5032M, Mera Peak 6476M summit. If you are dreaming of climbing Ama Dablam make sure to have good climbing experience and basic mountaineering skills.
Is Ama Dablam harder than Everest?
Climbing both the mountains of Ama Dablam and Everest is not an easy task. You need a good level of climbing experience and mountaineering skills. However, compared to Everest Ama Dablam is a bit easier and shorter than Everest.
Do I get internet service during the Ama Dablam Climbing?
From the low altitude area to the base camp, you will have access to the wifi but after you move from base camp there will be no more wifi.
Can you see Everest from Ama Dablam?
Yes, it is possible to catch a glimpse of Mount Everest from the summit of Ama Dablam. The panoramic view from Ama Dablam’s summit offers breathtaking vistas of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including the majestic Mount Everest.
Can I use credit cards around the Ama Dablam Region?
In the Amadablam region, you cannot use a credit card anywhere. We suggest you carry the cash for the transaction because most of the village only accepts the cash. The wise decision is to withdraw from the atm in Kathmandu before embarking on this expenditure.
Do you need oxygen to climb Ama Dablam?
Normally we don’t need the oxygen bottle to climb during the Ama Dablam expedition. However, in the case of an emergency, it will be provided.